AHAs are natural acids from fruit and sugar that break down the glue holding dead skin cells together.
Anything with "acid" in the name sounds scary, but AHAs are naturally occurring acids from fruit and sugar, and they exfoliate without a single scratchy grain. They're one of my favourite ways to brighten dull, tired or mature skin.
How do alpha hydroxy acids work?
AHAs dissolve the bonds holding dead skin cells on the surface. I like to think of it like dissolving the glue, and when the glue goes, the glow comes back, because that dull layer of dead cells lifts away to show the fresher skin underneath. This is what's called chemical exfoliation. Physical exfoliation, your scrubs and grainy exfoliants, does the same job by buffing the dead cells away instead, and some of my favourite formulas below do both at once.
What are the different types of AHAs?
Glycolic acid is the strongest. It comes from sugarcane and pineapple, and because it has the smallest molecule of all the AHAs, it penetrates the deepest, which makes it the pick for hyperpigmentation, congestion and uneven skin tone.
Lactic acid has a bigger molecule, so it works closer to the surface and is gentler, and it hydrates while it exfoliates. Traditionally it came from milk, but in natural skincare it's usually made from beets or tomatoes. Most natural formulas then round out the blend with fruit acids, malic acid from apples and citric acid from citrus, which back up the main two and bring their own antioxidants.
How do AHAs differ from BHAs?
The difference comes down to what dissolves them. AHAs are water-soluble, so they work on the surface of the skin, which is why they're the choice for dullness, uneven tone, fine lines and pigmentation. BHAs, like salicylic acid, are oil-soluble, so they can get through the oil in your pores and clean them out from the inside, which is why they suit oily, congested and breakout-prone skin. Surface work, AHA. Pore work, BHA.
How often should I use an AHA?
Start with two or three evenings a week and build up as your skin gets used to it. And because exfoliating reveals fresh new skin that's more sensitive to the sun, SPF the next morning is non-negotiable.
My favourite natural AHA products
These are my picks from the full natural AHA collection.
Vanessa Megan AHA & Willow Bark Clarifying Decongestion Serum
This is a peel in a bottle. It has all of it: lactic acid at 28%, glycolic at 12%, plus citric, malic and tartaric acids, backed with willow bark, witch hazel and niacinamide for congested and blemish-prone skin, and Bulgarian rose to keep skin comfortable while the acids do their work. Not suited to sensitive skin.
Andalou Naturals Brightening Pumpkin Honey Glycolic Mask
One of my favourite masks, and the consumer study backs me up: after one week, 100% of participants had smoother, softer skin and 91% said their dull skin looked glowing. It pairs glycolic acid with pumpkin enzymes and turmeric for the exfoliation and brightening, then honey and hyaluronic acid keep skin comfortable and nourished.
LAMAV AHA Face Exfoliant
Chemical and physical exfoliation in one, and the one in our photo. Its AHAs come from desert lime, sugar cane and bilberry, with fine bamboo particles and diatomaceous earth to do the buffing, plus Kakadu plum and antioxidant-rich matcha. The trick with this one is to massage it in, then leave it on for a few minutes before rinsing, so the AHAs get time to do their work.
Mukti 2-in-1 Resurfacing Exfoliant
That bright green comes from natural chlorophyll. This is a two in one exfoliating cleanser, and the reason I love it so much is it uses natural AHAs from Australian natives like finger lime, but it also uses bamboo and jojoba beads, so you get that really satisfying physical exfoliation as well.
About the Author ~ Irene Falcone
Irene Falcone is a clean beauty writer and co-host of a wellness podcast. She has spent more than 15 years reading the back of beauty labels, and is a Telstra Business Women's Awards winner and a judge for the Clean + Conscious Awards.
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