AHAs are natural acids from fruit and sugar that break down the glue holding dead skin cells together.
AHAs are one of my favourite ways to exfoliate, brighten and smooth skin texture over time, and they are much kinder to dull, uneven or mature skin than gritty scrubs. This guide goes through the main types, how they work, how they differ from BHAs, and my favourite natural AHA products.
How Do Alpha Hydroxy Acids Work?
Natural AHAs work by loosening the bonds that hold dead skin cells together on the surface. I like to think of it like dissolving the glue, and when the glue goes, the glow comes back. As those cells shed more readily, the complexion appears brighter and smoother. It's a more uniform process than physical exfoliation, which relies on abrasive particles to manually buff away dead skin cells.
What Are the Different Types of AHAs?
The two most common AHAs in natural skincare are glycolic acid and lactic acid. Glycolic acid, sourced from sugarcane and pineapple, is the one for hyperpigmentation, congestion and uneven skin tone. It has a smaller molecular size than other AHAs, allowing it to penetrate the skin more readily.
Lactic acid is a gentler option, usually made from tomatoes and beets. It brightens and improves skin texture over time and is a good starting point for those new to AHA. Malic acid, found in apples, and citric acid, derived from citrus fruits, are also naturally occurring AHAs.
How Do AHAs Differ From BHAs?
AHAs work on the skin’s surface, exfoliating dead cells to improve texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and fade hyperpigmentation. BHAs, such as salicylic acid, are oil-soluble and penetrate deeper into the pores, so they suit oily, congested or blemish-prone skin, while AHAs tend to suit those focused on brightening, resurfacing and anti-ageing.
Ready to give AHAs a go? These are my favourites.
AHA Serums and Toners
If you're new to AHAs, a serum or toner is the place to start. These work through chemical exfoliation alone, so they are easy to layer into an existing routine.
Raww Caviar Lime AHA Resurfacing Serum
A great option for refining texture and targeting uneven skin tone. The Raww Caviar Lime AHA Resurfacing Serum contains 4% AHAs sourced from Australian Caviar Lime and Papaya, and it is gentle enough for daily use on all skin types.
Antipodes Glory Vitamin C Triple-Action Glow Toner
A good one to use after cleansing if you want to support a brighter, more even complexion. The Antipodes Glory Vitamin C Triple-Action Glow Toner combines Kakadu Plum, shown to contain 100 times the Vitamin C of oranges, with Melanostatine™ 5 peptides and Lime Caviar AHAs for multi-layered brightening.
Vanessa Megan AHA & Willow Bark Clarifying Decongestion Serum
One for congested or blemish-prone skin. The Vanessa Megan AHA & Willow Bark Clarifying Decongestion Serum is formulated with 12% Glycolic Acid, 28% Lactic Acid and a blend of Citric, Malic and Tartaric Acids, plus Willow Bark and Niacinamide. Not recommended for sensitive skin types.
100% Pure 10% Apple Enzyme Resurfacing Serum
If uneven texture and congestion are your focus, start here. The 100% Pure 10% Apple Enzyme Resurfacing Serum combines 10% AHAs from Green Apple, Papaya and Beets with Hyaluronic Acid to keep skin comfortable throughout.
AHA Exfoliants, Masks and Scrubs
For a more thorough exfoliation, these formulas combine AHAs with a physical element, whether that's clay, micro-particles or fruit seeds, for a dual-action result.
LAMAV AHA Face Exfoliant
Chemical and physical exfoliation in a single step. The LAMAV AHA Face Exfoliant combines AHAs from Desert Lime, Sugar Cane and Bilberry with Bamboo particles and Diatomaceous Earth, plus Kakadu Plum and Melanostatine™ 5 to target pigmentation.
Andalou Naturals Brightening Pumpkin Honey Glycolic Mask
One of my favourite masks for brightening and evening skin tone. The Andalou Naturals Brightening Pumpkin Honey Glycolic Mask pairs glycolic acid and pumpkin enzyme for exfoliation, with honey and hyaluronic acid to keep things comfortable.
Madara Peel Creamy Clay 7% AHA Clay Mask
The pick for oily, combination or blemish-prone skin. The Madara Peel Creamy Clay 7% AHA Clay Mask is formulated with 7% Lactic Acid and micro-clay, with White Clay to support pore clarity and Jojoba Oil to maintain comfort during exfoliation. Not suitable for fragile or hypersensitive skin.
Mukti 2-in-1 Resurfacing Exfoliant
The two-in-one built on native Australian limes. The Mukti 2-in-1 Resurfacing Exfoliant combines AHA chemical exfoliation from Desert Lime, Finger Lime Caviar and Rainforest Lime with physical polishing from Jojoba beads and Bamboo particles.
100% Pure Strawberry Brightening Scrub
If you prefer a combined approach, the 100% Pure Strawberry Brightening Scrub pairs natural AHAs from Pineapple, Papaya and Lemon with Strawberry, Grape and Cranberry seed exfoliants to target dullness and rough texture.
Can I Use an AHA Serum and a Scrub Together?
Yes, you can. I like to double down, you know me, I always like to approach things from every angle. Start with a gentle serum or toner, and once your skin is used to it, bring in a weekly mask or scrub for a deeper polish.
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